Risotto with Roasted Wild Game

I've been down this road before on Redneck's, way back in March I think, when I posted a brief blurb on cooking risotto combined with roasted wild game, which at that time was this plump little partridge.

The reason I'm going down that road again is because these two elements make the most wonderful combination for a rich and luxurious supper time treat that you simply have to try, so here's an update which I hope you enjoy.

Risotto is one of those classic dishes that attracts some controversy in what should, or should not go into it and how precisely it should be prepared. All the hot air which surrounds so many "classic" dishes is a distraction that folks new to cooking could well do without. The basic ingredients of this time honored dish are just rice and stock and butter for extra richness. The flourishes in this symphony were traditionally provided by seasonal notes, both meat and vegetable which were available locally.

So there you have it, risotto your way, but with one mandatory rule and the secret at the heart of any risotto, good hot stock.

Now I'm something of a stock fanatic. I make my own out of left over bones on a regular basis. Much to the annoyance of those unfortunate enough to be in the vicinity of my kitchen, huge pots of this stuff will be found bubbling away on the stove most weekends. In this risotto I use a light game stock.

You can use any feathered game you like for this risotto, with the exception of wild duck, or goose, which needs somewhat different treatment. Right now I'm thinking quail, a superbly flavored game bird, but I love this with pheasant too.

Season the birds inside the cavity with freshly ground black pepper and sea salt. Scrunch up a small sprig of fresh thyme and pop that in too. Slather some real butter on the breasts and thighs of the birds and season again with pepper and salt and a few thyme leaves stripped from the stems. Arrange the birds in a suitably sized roasting pan, splash over a little dry white wine and they're ready for the oven.

Small game birds need very little cooking and 20 minutes uncovered in a hot oven should be more than enough and will ensure that they are not dry at all. Baste the birds with the cooking juices a couple of times during cooking. When the birds are done, cover the roasting pan and set the birds aside in a warm place to rest.

For the risotto, melt some butter in a large deep sided skillet and sweat finely chopped onion until it softens and almost melts. Do not brown the onion. Crushed or finely chopped garlic is an option here and I personally include it, but you don't have to. When the onions are soft, add the risotto rice, arborio is just perfect, and stir to coat all the grains with the butter.

Now it's time to add the hot game stock. Start by adding a couple of ladles of the stock, stirring all the time. This helps the rice to release starch that thickens the risotto and gives it that characteristic smooth, velvety texture. Once the rice has absorbed most of the first shot of stock it's time to begin adding more, but now just one ladle at a time and continue to stir frequently. Add the juices from the roasting pan. This really lifts the dish. Dependent on the saltiness of your stock you can add a little sea salt at this stage. There will come a point where the rice wont absorb any more stock and you don't want the risotto to turn out too wet, so take it easy on the stock as the rice is reaching the point where it is on the al dente side of done. Whisk in some more butter for extra creaminess and optionally, some freshly grated parmesan. The result should be a beautiful creamy moist rice with just a little bite to it. You might like to add some hot freshly cooked peas, something commonly added in the region of Italy from where this dish originally comes, but again this is purely optional.

Remove the legs from the quail and take the breasts off the bone whole. This can be a little tricky if you're not quick and used to doing this, so it's a good idea for someone else to do this while you pay attention to finishing the risotto.

I like to serve the rice on warmed plates with the whole breasts and legs arranged over the top, but slice the breasts on the slant if you prefer.

That's pretty much all there is to it. Simple, rustic and totally delicious. Hope you enjoy Risotto with Roasted Wild Game.